February 21, 2022

The Speedmaster Calibre 321 in Canopus Gold™ 

To create the newest version of the legendary Speedmaster chronograph, OMEGA has once again pushed the boundaries of watchmaking expertise, using methods and technologies that achieve exceptional quality in every detail. 

We have now gone inside the factory to reveal exactly how this commemorative and highly-innovative timepiece has been crafted. From the bezel to the dial, you can now begin to understand why this unique watch stands apart from the rest. 

The Bezel 


For the very first time, OMEGA has developed a white gold bezel featuring a black enamel tachymeter scale. To accomplish the début feature in this specific case, the process requires three separate layers of black enamel being applied to the engraved bezel, and after each layer is applied, the bezel spends time in a “Grand Feu” furnace at exactly 850°C. When this is complete, the top surface of the bezel is satin-brushed to reveal the clear numbering of the scale, before the bezel is placed back in the furnace one last time (at 800°C) to enhance the tachymeter’s glossy appearance. 

The Dial 

Onyx is blacker than ceramic, making it the ideal material for the dial of this Speedmaster. To respect the original specifications of the 1957 Speedmaster dial, OMEGA uses an ultrasonic CNC machine to precisely cut and assemble each of the dial’s main components - beginning with the primary base plate in brass. This plate is given a black DLC coating (Diamond Like Carbon), before receiving its three chronograph counters also in black onyx. A second plate in black onyx is then added, followed by the external minute ring in black onyx, to complete the Speedmaster’s famous “step dial” effect. 


The Case

18K gold (with at least 75% pure gold) is considered the premium standard for watchmaking, as it offers the ultimate balance between purity and practicality. OMEGA’s 18K Canopus GoldTM alloy combines gold with platinum, rhodium and palladium to deliver its exclusive quality and look. For this watch, the raw material is machined to create the genuine case shape of the original Speedmaster and is then given polished and brushed surfaces to deliver contrasting effects. 


 The Caseback 

The Seahorse has long been a symbol used on OMEGA watches and was originally inspired by the seahorse motifs used on the gondolas of Venice. While also being attributed to Seamaster timepieces, the Seahorse has also become a defining icon for the Speedmaster collection. On this watch, the design has been laser engraved on the inside of the sapphire glass. Then, a patented technique using LiquidmetalTM has been used to set a single blue sapphire for the eye. LiquidmetalTM has become an important material for OMEGA, providing the ultimate technique for bonding and enduring stability. 

News, Images and Videos are courtesy of Omega SA, Switzerland